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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, just got a 1970 Impala 4 door sedan. 30K Actual unmolested (not rolled over) survivor miles. Gold Original paint that still shines great, original black vinyl top. 350/250HP, TH350 Trans, 10 Bolt open rear, factory original Kelsey Hayes Rally Wheels (I think 15X7 came on the car back then if it had Rally's). I am also the proud owner of a Chevrolet vintage correct (like new shiny) Winters Foundry (snow flake) LT-1 four barrel Intake manifold.

I do not want to badly molest this car, but I think minor bolt on goodies should not badly ruin the value and might even improve the value (since it is a 4-door)

I want to install the intake and a small Holley carb, a new GTO OE GM dual snorkel air cleaner (I think the Pontiac OE air cleaner with the chrome hat looks like it belongs and flows much better as it has much larger snorkel openings than the Chevrolet dual snorkel), Aluminum fined LT-1 valve covers, and put factory duals on the original rams horn exhaust manifolds, there are a couple of pin holes on the original single exhaust, so I think duals are called for.

That a mild cam and an HEI Distributer for the engine work and stop there. I would consider some head work (valve guides, seals, etc..., due to current fuel availability).

I am also considering a B&M Shift improver kit for the transmission (since it is a passenger car, mostly for cruise nights and shows, I don't want a neck snapping transmission). I am also considering F41 type mild suspension upgrades like new shocks {it still has the original shocks}, sway bars and upgrading the 4 wheel manual brakes.

So far all I did was put a vintage (Chevrolet) look a like stereo in place of the factory AM unit. I used period correct speaker grills in the rear and the correct dual speaker upgrade that goes in the original front opening.

Any other Ideas that are not drastic or looking out of touch will be appreciated (I may also add Dynamat to better the ride quality).
 

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1961 Impala 2 Door Sedan
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I like everything you said. It's a very similar approach I've taken with my car and I think it's a great plan. Love to see pics of the build as you go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It will be Slooooo going. I am doing Vintage Air and the trany reseal first (the Trans has some dried out seals and I get an occasional pink drip on the garage floor), I have cardboard under the car for now. I will probably have the transmission shop do the shift improver kit at the same time. That will set me back a bit, I am sure the AC will be thousands. I am also hoping to find the top dash center AC vent and the woodgrain piece that goes to the right of it, so the Vintage air looks proper when it is installed.

Further fantasy's are restored factory 1969 (even though mine is a 70) Strato Buckets (with the correct gold 1970 interior cloth) and also correct (for 1969) a 1969 floor console (Chevrolet did not offer the Strato Buckets or floor console in a 1970 4-Door Sedan). What also would ne amazing would be having a functional 1970 Chevelle Cowl Induction hood setup body worked into the Impala hood (don't think that will ever happen).
 

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If does not have dual exhaust, that is where I would start. Dual exhaust would be a prerequisite for the other changes you are contemplating. The exhaust gases have to exit. See where you are and then decide how much 'more' you want/need.

Also, before I changed anything, I'd properly tune the car. Proper timing is essential. Here's a link for some info you may find helpful:


I 'd also focus on low end torque (rather than HP). Let the HP 'fall out' based on the torque.

Just some thoughts for consideration.

Dynamat for ride quality? Is that not sound dampening material? I may not be interpreting your comment correctly.

If the suspension is original it likely needs work to get back to simple OEM ride. Looking for 'better' ride than OEM? Springs, shocks, and perhaps a 'larger' sway bar are things I would look to use to improve ride quality.

Just some 'other ideas'.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dynamat will lower the interior road noise and make the ride (sound quality) nicer. But in all honesty, the car is currently quite as a mouse. I want to do the trans reseal first so the exhaust does not need to be moved to R & R the trans. I did mention the suspension I stated "I am also considering F41 type mild suspension upgrades like new shocks {it still has the original shocks}, sway bars". The ride height is still correct & not sagging. Springs are a bit tricky, I do not want to lower the car. The original blueprints for the original springs are still on file with Eaton Detroit and can still be ordered. I do not know what else was available back then. I know they had a police package, I do not think they called it 9C1 back then, I think it was called a 6BC or something like that. They possibly had a F41. But back then for the most part most of the springs were not a progressive rate and if I make a mistake it might ride like a brick. I need to find a progressive rate sport ride spring set with the correct ride height. I also know my rear trailing arms are not pre drilled or boxed for the rear sway bar, so I will probably need to buy correct trailing arms that are drilled and supported for the rear sway bar. I am looking into tubular front upper and lower control arms, but I refuse to get the ones with the Dellalum (aluminum) bushings, it might handle great but with metal on metal it will probably ride like S_ _ T. If I go tubular control arms I will probably want the rubber or urethane bushings, I think Midwest makes a set. I will probably also upgrade the factory Rally's to 15X8 to try to keep the look as correct as possible. I need to keep in mind it is not a sports car it has got to be close to a 3,500 to 4,000 pound sled. Soooo Trans first (very soon) then somewhat quiet duals probably like OEM without the resonators, possibly a shorter turbo muffler but probably nothing loud like Flow Master.
 

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By the way, be extra cautious with that nice Hood Lip Molding. They don't reproduce them and they are almost impossible to find used, in good condition or better. One guy I know took months, if not years to find one in NOS. He told me if I found one for him, he would gladly pay up to $1000 for it !!
 

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Hi, Just for my information, are you referring to the molding by the windshield, or the one by the grill?
The one on the front end of the hood above the grille.

Because of it's location and the way the car is designed, it's known for getting dinged and dented.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The one on the front end of the hood above the grille.

Because of it's location and the way the car is designed, it's known for getting dinged and dented.
Good to know, Also FYI in Hemmings Motor News there is a section for services available. In Hemmings there are listings for people that straighten and restore. those moldings.
 

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Good to know, Also FYI in Hemmings Motor News there is a section for services available. In Hemmings there are listings for people that straighten and restore. those moldings.
true. I've seen an outfit that shows up at swap meets in my area but they seem to concentrate on strictly 55-57. the other problem is whether they can properly re-plate the moldings. some of them are not chrome but anodized. will they strip it down and re-anodize it if necessary?
 
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