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No power?

4K views 44 replies 11 participants last post by  eraycer686 
#1 ·
Good afternoon all. I have a 1960 Impala, has been running great. Now all of the sudden, i have absolutely no electricity. Battery is good. Just replaced a bad positive cable and also the negative one. Still nothing, no lights, no horn,no interior dome lights. Please help.
 
#17 ·
I've had some trouble with the bulkhead connector myself. I'm not sure how much experience you have with this stuff but here is a picture of roughly what it looks like on a different old Chevy.
It just snaps in place like most electrical connections. It may have tar/rubber sealer **** around it to keep rain/water out of the connections. It's just to the right of the steering column on the firewall in the engine bay.
Can you use a voltmeter/multi-meter to check for 12v at the voltage regulator? Do you have a 2nd small wire connecting to the Battery positive post?

Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Cable Auto part



Motor vehicle Bumper Circuit component Automotive tire Automotive exterior
 
#18 ·
I've had some trouble with the bulkhead connector myself. I'm not sure how much experience you have with this stuff but here is a picture of roughly what it looks like on a different old Chevy.
It just snaps in place like most electrical connections. It may have tar/rubber sealer **** around it to keep rain/water out of the connections. It's just to the right of the steering column on the firewall in the engine bay.
Can you use a voltmeter/multi-meter to check for 12v at the voltage regulator? Do you have a 2nd small wire connecting to the Battery positive post?

View attachment 31157


View attachment 31158
 
#26 ·
I had same problem with also engine shut off. Checked and had no headlights, and after awhile the engine restarted and everything was ok. I was informed on this forum to check the plug on the engine side of firewall.. It was corroded and after cleaning pins, haven't had problem since. Good luck
 
#27 ·
STOP STOP STOP!!!!!

This is not a 2022 car with lots of computers etc......This is why we love these cars, it will ALWAYS BE SOMETHING SIMPLE. The negative cable goes from the Negative terminal on the battery to the block WE ALL GOT THAT! DONE you cant screw that up.

The Positive wire goes from the Battery positive terminal to the starter WE ALL GOT THAT! NEXT.

HERE IS THE SIMPLE THING. From that same POSITIVE lug (power) on the starter there is a wire that brings power to the inside of the vehicle (ignition and accessory items). STOP HERE FOR A SECOND, take a breath. There is a Batt WIRE (AT THE starter) to the Batt connector on the fuse block then it goes to the ignition and from the ignition ACC (Accessory) position on the ignition back to the accessory section of the fuse block. WHAT probably happened is after I stated STOP HERE FOR A SECOND.

THE positive wire from the starter solenoid to the inside of the vehicle is your culprit, either you accidentally lost it in the Battery Positive hook up on your starter, or there is a break on that wire or it could be the B+ fuse.

NOW GO BACK TO WHERE I STATED STOP RIGHT THERE. First look for a wire you forgot to connect at the starter. That might fix everything. If you did not forget that wire, Just to check, Run a jumper (like a 10 ga) from the battery through an open window to the positive (BATT) terminal of the fuse block. If everything works your B+ wire from the starter is your culprit. Replace it or repair it as necessary. Also, if there is power at the Batt possession on the fuse block (your horn and lights should work) The Wiring to and from the ignition switch or the switch is bad. Take a breath, and thank God your car was built when you did not need a Doctoral degree in automotive electronics.
 
#30 ·
New subject: now that I have power, she doesn't seem to want to start. I've tried starting fluid. It kicks over. I tried putting gas directly into the carburetor, kicked over and started running,there is a half a tank of gas. In the past, when the car sat for awhile, I would add a bottle of drygas. Which i did. Seems gas is not making it to the carburetor. Gonna replace the fuel pump tomorrow. Any other ideas, in case that's not the problem
 
#32 ·
Once again you are lucky. You own a classic and not a computerized nightmare. You only need to figure out three things. You need to make sure you have Fuel, Air, and Spark. As others have suggested make sure you have gas coming out of the fuel line at the carb. Check that you have spark, it is probably something simple. If your plug wires cant be made to arc to ground, see if your points are closed. Also you can replace your condenser. Check your coil, etc... Depending if you are due for a full service tune-up, you can do Points and Condenser, Cap, Rotor, Wires. It might be something as simple ad the float in your carb being stuck. Try to find the problem, before throwing money into it.
 
#31 ·
I'd disconnect the fuel line to the carb and crank the engine over to see if gas is squirting out. If not and you have an inline fuel filter I'd disconnect the line to the filter then crank the engine over to see if gas is squirting out. If none then the fuel pump is probably bad.
 
#37 ·
Another thing to check. I have found that during long term storage like during a restoration the points can develop a layer of corosion and cause a no spark condition. lightly burnishing the point contacts takes care of the problem. Also nos old points can get corosion even in the unopened package.
 
#38 ·
Thanks, but the car is firing properly. Dropped enough gas in the carburetor. It is firing just fine. Just won't stay running, because of no gas making it to the carburetor. Now all I have to do is find the proper fittings for pump to carburetor. No one seems to have them.
 
#40 ·
Use a remote 2 gal plastic jug and connect a line from the tank to the fuel pump. Hopefully you'll get your engine started and keep running. This confirms the new pump is good.

Then it appears your line from the tank to the fuel pump is plugged so you'll have to disconnect the line from the tank and also disconnect the fuel pump line then use an air hose with 25# +/- PSI air and blow the line out. Hopefully that'll be the fix otherwise you're tank has sediment that's causing the line to plug up. The fix for that is to drop the tank and have it boiled out.
 
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