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1963 Belair 3 speed manual. Would it hurt the transmission to tow the car on a dolly? I'd like to pull it behind the RV.
 

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To be safe you should drop the drive shaft. If you can not crawl under the car while it is up elevated by the dolly, then back it in place and secure the steering wheel (I mean really secure it so that it can not come loose).

Finally it that doesn't appeal to you buy some towing bubs that bolt on place of the rear wheels. You then bolt the wheel to the hub if it will fit under the fender or find a narrow wheel and tire combination that will fit. Then store your wheels in the trunk.

One of the things I discovered with my seven ton Winniebago motor home was that the empty weight plus fluids (55 gallons of gas and 70 gallons of water stored in three tanks (potable, grey, and black water), pushed the gross weight up to 270 pounds under the design limit. It couldn't carry food, clothes bedding or us never mind two dogs that weigh over a hundred pounds each. A severely overloaded camper is unstable and fishtails at high speed because of the weight distribution problems (where storage is placed). I can not imagine towing a car with it though; it came with a dolly when I bought it.

But then if I wrecked my RV I would need to replace it another, which explains his offer of a free dolly with my purchase. I discovered this by driving over a scale at a commercial truck stop (cost me $7 to get my ticket punched).

Big Dave
 

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Thanks Big Dave. I put brakes on the dolly when I built it. Right now, we only travel under 80 miles one way to the grounds we use. But there's a few that are 500m or more I'd like to go to. I thought about towing backwards (I made the trailer tongue a little longer for this reason) but I need to verify the legalities of doing this in Louisiana, Mississippi, and Arkansas.
I never heard of "Towing bubs". I'm intrigued. Very.
 

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Run this through Google:

free wheeling hubs and were made by NMW

NNW has gone under with the introduction of front wheel drive cars; but I came across three references to NOS Chevy bolt pattern hubs on Craig's list and Flea-Bay

Big Dave
 

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From everything I have read it is safe to tow a manual transmission car with the drive wheels on the ground, you just have to put it in neutral while towing. The problem is automatics. In an automatic transmission the pump that keeps the fluid flowing is attached to the input side of the transmission and when towing a car this pump doesn't go resulting in poor lubrication and a burnt up automatic transmission. I wouldn't want to do it, but I bet if you had an automatic like the early power glides and ST-300 transmission with a rear pump you could probably get away with towing them.

They also make a drive shaft de-coupler that installs like a gear venders overdrive and lets you decouple and recouple the driveshaft with a push of a button in the car.
 

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I wish DOT would outlaw those dollies. There's not a safe way to transport a vehicle with one of those.

all on the ground, or none of 'em.

A basic utility flat bed trailer large enough for one of our beasties really isn't going to cost that much more. and you can use it for more than toting yer Impala.

I highly recommend a trailer.

$1239.95 for a dolly on a special price (http://www.saferwholesale.com/Heavy-Duty-Car-Trailer-Towing-Dolly-Hauler-4-500-p/gsi-towingdolly-3000lbs.htm?vfsku=GSI.TowingDolly.3000lbs&Click=35179&vfsku=GSI.TowingDolly.3000lbs&gpla=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5LbWBRDCARIsALAbcOfm1ObZAc7cBk4g5y4EIQGRu9ACJzceyGJ5aYl2oBVkDTxcSESLUTsaAi2CEALw_wcB)

$2175 for a real trailer ... any time (https://sleequipment.com/6-4-x18-utility-steel-flatbed-trailer.html?fee=8&fep=198332&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5LbWBRDCARIsALAbcOfM4IM9TkVTDQiJqwjcWM58aDoWUNvXSIV5UlB3RDlEKVhu1imbAgwaAqf3EALw_wcB)
 

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I have an 18ft trailer. Our usual haunts don't have the room to park the trailer. My dolly has electric brakes I added while rebuilding or over the winter. I'm thinking going this direction:
https://www.awdirect.com/dollies/
Having trailer brakes better, but the real problem with dollies is the CG ... center of gravity. Most of 'em don't allow for enough tongue weight because if they did, the car would be so far forward the ramps would impact the bottom of most cars and almost certainly a "low rider." If the pull is smooth and there are no "displacements" from stable, they're marginally acceptable. But who hasn't had to change direction? Who has been on a contemporary highway without unavoidable potholes/sinkholes ... ruts. And in Louisiana ... bi-level-shifted roadways which are more like stairs than thoroughfares.

Yes, I've had a bad experience with the one I used when I moved from Louisiana to North Carolina during my USAF days. But after that, I began to observe 'em too. Everyone I've seen has negative static stability ... some degree of "fishtailing" ... due to the loading problem and the arm moment on the relatively extensive tongue length. That is ... even if you could put 4K lbs ONLY a foot/two ahead of your front trailer axle to replicate the loading issue, the overall length of your trailer makes it much more stable than the dolly. (never mind the tandem axle's being more stable laterally.)

I recommend putting a shield on the front of your trailer (cause ya don't wanna FOD the front of yer Impala) ... and drag the trailer, haul the car.

I don't understand ... "I don't have room to park the trailer" ... where is the trailer now? Dollies are probably acceptable for being in a float parade.

Good luck ... but really ... they are a problem none of us need.
 

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... ughh ... i just saw your link.

interesting. I've only seen something like this used by a wrecker who's towing a vehicle parked in violation somewhere. At least there are two axles. So this would be more like "doubles" on a tractor trailer rig. The tongue isn't carrying any weight. Wish there was a picture of these things installed on a vehicle ready to tow.

Thanks
 

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Those are for a winch and boom wrecker (as opposed to a roll back) where the wrecker has a triangular bar that picks up and holds one end while the dolly wheels are strapped onto the other end (two lifts doubling the time and labor to hook the car, with an equal increase in price to tow the vehicle).

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #11
@Shaark, there's no room for the trailer at the camp ground. I agree about the dynamics of weight bias. I've had to learn it through experience and had a few hairy situations. @Bigdave. I posted the link more out of a curiosity. I'm getting too old to add more labor. I'd be scared to pull those long distance.
 

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@Shaark, there's no room for the trailer at the camp ground. I agree about the dynamics of weight bias. I've had to learn it through experience and had a few hairy situations.
bummer ... I might find a better campground. an 18' lowboy behind a motor home? I wouldn't think that'd be much different than a crew cab/5er with a visitor. Must not be a state/federal RV site?

Well, good luck. Glad to know you have experience, too. So, you know about that which you're proposing to undertake.

yeah, the wheel dollies would be more difficult to get road ready, but I think they'd be better than the car dolly. Since participating in this thread, I saw another one this week. He was doing a good job with it, but the cross winds were making his little tooter car fishtail. Hello ... and the front wheels WERE in front of the dolly axle. It was a FWD car, so all the "beef" was actually as far forward as it could reasonably be, too, and he still had CG problems. Those dolly tongues just have too much relative length and doesn't allow for sufficient tongue weight.

Al
 
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