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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All
Starter keeps cranking when kry is released.

1966 Belair. installed a new M H Electric wire harnesses. Made for an internal voltage regulator. And HEI distributor. All new wiring under the hood and under the dash. ignition switch is original. We tested it and is good. But not sure about the tumblers.
We thought maybe the starter needed to be shimmed. But it seems to turn over easily. The starter is rebuilt be a shop and not a re man.
we checked the battery cables and all the grounds.

Also when I got the car many years ago there was no horn relay. I purchase one recently. The big red wire from the harness. Does it matter what terminal it goes on the relay.

I believe I covered everything.

what can cause the starter to do this.
thanks.
 

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Only had that happen one time. It was on my farm tractor with a Delco starter and it was a starter problem. Had the starter rebuilt and it solved the problem. You may want to try another starter just to eliminate the possibility.
 
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Only had that happen one time. It was on my farm tractor with a Delco starter and it was a starter problem. Had the starter rebuilt and it solved the problem. You may want to try another starter just to eliminate the possibility.
Thinking back, I did also change the Ignition Switch just to be on the safe side, but I believe it was a starter problem as mentioned.
 

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I wouldn't exactly bet against the starter, or even shims for obvious reasons, but with you having a new harness and having HEI I can't help but wonder if there's a wiring mis-connection. Did you do an under dash harness, under-hood harness or both?
Do you think the 12v is staying 'hot' on the single wire you having going to your solenoid when the key comes back to the ON position? I'd certainly chase down that wire from the solenoid and see where the other end is at, and that it's not tapped into the same hot-wire that is comes from Key-On.
 

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When you turn the key it powers the starter motor solenoid which then creates a circuit which allows power to travel from the battery directly to the starter motor. If the problem was a sticking solenoid you would also have power to the starter motor even when you turn the key completely off, which you haven't mentioned, so for some reason the solenoid must still be receiving power and still be completing the circuit even when you release the key. A bad ignition switch could be your problem, or even a bad multiplug connected to the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wouldn't exactly bet against the starter, or even shims for obvious reasons, but with you having a new harness and having HEI I can't help but wonder if there's a wiring mis-connection. Did you do an under dash harness, under-hood harness or both?
Do you think the 12v is staying 'hot' on the single wire you having going to your solenoid when the key comes back to the ON position? I'd certainly chase down that wire from the solenoid and see where the other end is at, and that it's not tapped into the same hot-wire that is comes from Key-On.
Yes I did replace both harnesses under the hood and under the dash.
we are going to check again the wires at the starter.
I can not get to work on it un next week however.
thanks. 😀
 

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You should be able to delete it by yourself. Click onto Edit by clicking on the 3 dots at the upper right.
 

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I really don't think the problem is at the starter motor or solenoid. If the new wiring is perfect, as it should be, the likely issue is the old switch, even though you've tested it to be ok. I think it's likely worn internally and when you release the key the contacts don't return back to where they should, but when you subsequently turn the switch off you're forcing them to return, so the switch then operates correctly again until you attempt to start it again.
If I were you, I would determine which color wire is coming from the back of the switch & going through the firewall to the starter motor solenoid. If you've got a bench grinder, get an old piece of hacksaw blade & create a thin tool that you can then insert into the multiplug to disconnect that single wire from the plug, then reconnect the plug to the switch Turning the key to the start position should no longer have any effect at all. Then leave the switch in the on position and connect that single wire to 12v, I think you'll then find the starter motor will perform as it should and stop again when you disconnect the 12v power source.
 

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The first thing you should do is take a 12 volt test light or voltmeter (VM) and probe the connection that comes from the ignition switch. I like using a 12V test light for this testing,easier to see. This should be the purple wire that goes to the start side of the solenoid. Remove the wire to the distributor so the ignition won't fire or let the engine start. Then crank it over with your VM connected to the start terminal and see what happens when you stop turning the key.
Does it stop cranking ? Does the test light go out or voltmeter drop down?
BTW (you can rule out the ignition switch by jumping the starter terminal at the starter)
Take the starter off and then remove the solenoid from the starter. Then check the bendix drive. This is the piece that pushes the gear out to engage with the flywheel. The bendix may be worn out causing it to stay engaged or it could be there is sticky grease or rust causing it to stick engaged.
If that piece checks out your next thing to check is the solenoid. There are 2 small bolts holding it and then you twist it to remove it off the starter very easy to remove. There is a spring that has to go back on when you put it back together. If that spring is weakened that is another thing that can cause your problem. You can disassemble the solenoid and clean up the contacts inside as they have a habit of sticking when they are corroded.
 
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