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Can't say much other than the price (and that is relative since you live in France). Personally I buy my springs by the specifications (free height, spring rate, wire gauge, coil type as to pig tail, flat, or open coil design to fit application). I buy my shocks so that they are double adjustable, and have the correct travel for the ride height of the car. Sway bars are as big as I can get them (this allows for a stiffer spring rate but with a lighter hollow bar). Finally I buy only Moog suspension parts to match the quality of the OEM parts installed at the factory.

This kit doesn't list anything other than ride height difference from the stock ride height. Your car is over fifty years old. The springs are sagging so the ride height now is one and a half to two inches below factory ride height now. So bying a lowering spring might actually raise it's ride from where it sits now.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow ok Big Dave. It's a lot of things I didn't though. I want to rebuilt front end and bushings, I will so change coils and springs.
 

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Hi Charly, welcome to the site.

I'm kinda with Dave here. The kit has a combination of seemingly desirable hard-parts, but it has no specs on the parts. (swaybar thickness, coil spring ratings, etc) And it doesn't have the bushings/ball-joints, tie-rods, etc. Maybe that's in Stage 1 kit.

If buying a 'kit' of assembled parts, I'd prefer a segment focused company like Hotchkis (a site supporter) or Global West, etc.

Else, I do like hand picking from the best-of-breed companies like Moog, Bilstein, Addco, Detroit Speed, PST, Hotchkis, Global West, etc.
 

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To replace all of the wear parts in your front suspension I would recommend a kit like this:

https://p-s-t.com/series-220184-pol...html#!year=1966||make=CHEVROLET||model=IMPALA

To replace your springs I would look at these;

https://p-s-t.com/i-23160730-small-...html#!year=1966||make=CHEVROLET||model=IMPALA
and the rear springs:
https://p-s-t.com/i-23158409-heavy-...html#!year=1966||make=CHEVROLET||model=IMPALA

for a sway bar kit I would recommend Hotchkis:
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/par...shopping-_-srese1-_-hotchkis-sport-suspension

and for shocks: either a fully adjustable QA-1 or HD gas filled Bilstein:

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1966/chevrolet/impala/parts/bn461104.html

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1966/chevrolet/impala/parts/559022.html

As you can see there is a considerable difference in the price of the generic kit and quality parts that you know are designed for your application.

Big Dave
 

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I'm also researching kits for my 68 Impala. From what I've seen Global West seems to be the only company that has a comprehensive system for the Impalas. Hotchkiss has rear suspension and sway bars, but no springs or front control arms. CPP has suspension pieces, but as of yet is not offering a pro touring system like they do for the smaller cars.

My plan at this point is to price out some custom springs from Eaton spring using their Restomod service, some 2 way adjustable shocks, Hotchkiss sway bars, and a CPP 500 steering box, and new suspension bushings. I'm curious as to how that will compare to ordering everything from Global West. I like the fact that Global West has a very clear principal behind their design, and I figure they're smarter than I am. I'm curious as to why Hotchkiss isn't doing a TVS system for these cars, but I suppose the demand isn't there.

Templar
 

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There's nothing magical about keeping a single brand of parts to get your suspension set up.
For example, Global West does not believe in rear sway bars so their lower control arms do not have mounts for them. I'll be getting rid of my GW lowers in favor of the UMI version rather than more fabrication. RideTech rear links have a spherical bearing at one end which I wanted, so I have it. GW front upper control arms have enough room to let you adjust camber to a more modern setting. Best thing is to work with someone (or do the work yourself) to design a suspension package around your goals and then find the parts that meet those needs.
I'm currently working with Savitske Customs but there are a few other people out there who are knowledgeable about the old B body suspension.
Most of the good sway bars, regardless of vendor, are sourced from Hellwig.


I'm also researching kits for my 68 Impala. From what I've seen Global West seems to be the only company that has a comprehensive system for the Impalas. Hotchkiss has rear suspension and sway bars, but no springs or front control arms. CPP has suspension pieces, but as of yet is not offering a pro touring system like they do for the smaller cars.

My plan at this point is to price out some custom springs from Eaton spring using their Restomod service, some 2 way adjustable shocks, Hotchkiss sway bars, and a CPP 500 steering box, and new suspension bushings. I'm curious as to how that will compare to ordering everything from Global West. I like the fact that Global West has a very clear principal behind their design, and I figure they're smarter than I am. I'm curious as to why Hotchkiss isn't doing a TVS system for these cars, but I suppose the demand isn't there.

Templar
 

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Here at Global West we do run rear sway bars on various applications and some we don't mainly because you will be faster with out it. Note: Not all cars require rear sway bars. However with Impalas we do offer rear sway bars for 65-70 Impala's. Our bar does not attach to the lower control arms because it is not favorable for handling. We have a sway bar that attaches to the rear end and has links that go to the frame. This removes bind between the lower control arms (old sway bar design) and makes the sway bar more effective. Better handling --- SB6570
 

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1966 Impala Suspension Kits Advice

Good Morning,

I have been looking at the suspensions kits for my 66, I am interested in replacing as much of the original underpinnings as possible with modern technology. Does anyone have any recommendations or suggestions on the approach and purchase of the advertised kits available. I currently have all stock pieces underneath and not real sure which pieces could actually be re-used hence to research of total parts kit.
 

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Compare a 1966 Corvette Frame to a 1966 Impala Frame.


1965-'67 Impala frame


1964-'67 Corvette Frame

Note the difference? The Corvette frame has more cross-members to stiffen the frame, and it is fully boxed (basically a fully formed rectangle). The Impala, and all other GM cars and trucks used an open C channel for the frame. This is because a C channel is cheaper than welding in plates to fully box the frame, and GM wants a softer ride provided by a frame bending.

The frame is as much a part of your car's suspension as the control arms and A-arms. GM used stamped steel open channel control arms and A-arms. Like the frame they can be boxed in with the addition of flat steel plate welded to box the part as this limits flexing. You can buy kits of pre-cut and formed sheet metal to box a frame on a Chevelle but not an Impala:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Hellwig/207/...MImvOazfPq3gIV3bfACh3fUgjIEAQYBCABEgLmV_D_BwE

There are You Tube instructions on how to box in your A-arms and control arms for a Chevelle but no one talks about the Impala.


But everything that works on a Chevelle will work just as well with the larger dimensions of the Impala. This is called Hot Rodding.

You can buy parts from many companies that make parts to improve your handling (Hotchkiss, Global West, PST, and others); but no one sells one all encompassing kit to bolt on a better frame and suspension (though chassis builders such as Chris Alston and Art Morrison will sell you one for a modest fee of between $7,800 to $12,600).

As an engineer I can tell you that the stiffer the frame and stronger the suspension (less flex) the better the car will handle. It is all about keeping the tire planted flat on the pavement at all times. The bigger the tire patch on the ground the more control you have over the car as speed increases. It all has to due with the equation ½mv².

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hello, I finally bought Bilstein B6 shocks with Global West and Classic Performance springs.
It was too low for me so I added a 1.5" spacer to the rear springs. I've installed new bushing kit, front and rear end are on poly now.
Not already tested, I have a problem with the transmission oil pan, I'm waiting a new one.
 

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Those shocks are guaranteed for the life of the car so don't loose the proof of purchase. You will need to have a dated receipt to get them replaced in few decades.The make that guarantee figuring you will loose the paperwork.

You are probably too young to remember commercial with Jack Benny getting new muffler and tail pipes for his 1929 Maxwell at an AMMCO brake shop because they used to guarantee their work for the life of the car. He used to smile and say "See you next time", as he drove off.

Big Dave
 

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This kit doesn't list anything other than ride height difference from the stock ride height. Your car is over fifty years old. The springs are sagging so the ride height now is one and a half to two inches below factory ride height now. So bying a lowering spring might actually raise it's ride from where it sits now.

Big Dave

That actually happened to me on a pair of 2" lowering springs I bought from a company. Little did I realize just how much my front factory springs were sagging!!


Personally, I'm not a huge fan of 'warehouse' parts retailers that put their own brand on something. I prefer components from specialists - no matter where they end up being sold from - but parts manufactures you know like Moog, Hotchkis, Global West, Addco, Herb Adams Engineering, AC-Delco, etc.

Granted, they may have parts made in China but they stand behind their parts better IMO, and are trying to adhere to their design specs, not just a warehouse supplier making a generic part.
 

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Hello, I finally bought Bilstein B6 shocks with Global West and Classic Performance springs.
It was too low for me so I added a 1.5" spacer to the rear springs. I've installed new bushing kit, front and rear end are on poly now.
Not already tested, I have a problem with the transmission oil pan, I'm waiting a new one.



Cool man, that ride is coming along! I like the old/retro look of it. It's kinda dirty, I like it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The front need to be just a little bit lower, but it isn't bad like that. Maybe with the time it will sit lower.
It's not easy to buy plan when you don't know the original ride height.

For wheel alignment specifications, do you recommend the chassis service manual or custom settings?
This is what the manual says:

 

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Here's what I'm running on my 69:
Caster: Driver 4 deg, passenger 4.5 deg
Camber: -0.5 deg
Toe in: 0.10

It drives like a more modern car.

The front need to be just a little bit lower, but it isn't bad like that. Maybe with the time it will sit lower.
It's not easy to buy plan when you don't know the original ride height.

For wheel alignment specifications, do you recommend the chassis service manual or custom settings?
This is what the manual says:

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you @justjhon for your reply. It's out of my competences all these settings, but I will suggest it to the mechanic!
 

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Maybe with the time it will sit lower.
It's not easy to buy plan when you don't know the original ride height.
If you replaced the springs with new ones they will settle about a half inch in the first three months. Not to get excited as after that period it takes forty or more years to settle all the way down.

Your original ride height and where to measure it are in that Chassis Service manual.

Big Dave
 
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