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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 2 dr Canadian frame that I have bought as a roller to restore , keeping original vert frame on the body as I dont have the space to do all that at once , and it helps speed up my situation with restoring the rest of the car .

Plans are - LS3 and airbags ...

What would be the proper area to reinforce on the frame, i have the extra body mounts I will weld on too... But curious to know what others think . my buddy said to wrap the whole frame , I'm not hopping it with hydros no reason to do all that ... I kno the og vert frame is stronger than the hard top but not by much ... Any suggestions as to not go over board with the reinforcements ?
 

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Welcome to the Team!

Convertible frames are stamped out of thicker gage metal for added strength, they are made deeper (taller from top to bottom) for added strength, and portions of the frame are fully boxed for added strength. Finally there is an added cross-member missing from all other cars to support the roof structure and the hydraulic rams to lift it.

If you used a regular sedan or hard top frame under a convertible, the car could break in half when you open the doors. Especially if the non-convertible frame where heavily rusted or cracked from a previous impact.

Convertibles have doors with a slide in it that fits into a recess in the car body to support the weight of the car when closed. This makes the doors a stressed member to help hold the car up while driving since it is missing the roof which supports a third of the weight of the car.

With the exception of the Corvette (which is a full size car without a back seat, that runs around without a body) convertibles are incredibly week. Racers generally avoid them because of this. I wouldn't bounce one off the ground on a bet.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the Team!

Convertible frames are stamped out of thicker gage metal for added strength, they are made deeper (taller from top to bottom) for added strength, and portions of the frame are fully boxed for added strength. Finally there is an added cross-member missing from all other cars to support the roof structure and the hydraulic rams to lift it.

If you used a regular sedan or hard top frame under a convertible, the car could break in half when you open the doors. Especially if the non-convertible frame where heavily rusted or cracked from a previous impact.

Convertibles have doors with a slide in it that fits into a recess in the car body to support the weight of the car when closed. This makes the doors a stressed member to help hold the car up while driving since it is missing the roof which supports a third of the weight of the car.

With the exception of the Corvette (which is a full size car without a back seat, that runs around without a body) convertibles are incredibly week. Racers generally avoid them because of this. I wouldn't bounce one off the ground on a bet.

Big Dave

Big Dave !

Ive been following this site for a while now , and I can appreciate your help as you always reply to a post to help some one out...thank you for the welcome!


Are you suggesting not using this frame ? Would doing a stress wrap say running down the sides from front to rear , and reinforcing entire x member in the middle all the way around would still not help ?
 

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As I understand it you have a convertible and you want to do a frame off restoration (or restification since you want to bag it), and are using the sedan frame temporarily so that the car is a roller due to space limitations. Car is fine as a roller that won't be driven.

If you are asking if a sedan frame is a suitable substitution for a convertible frame then I am saying no it isn't. You can swap the frames and have a roller while you repair and reinforce the convertible frame or find a substitute convertible frame from the desert Southwest of the US (you know where every says "it's a dry heat" to explain why they live in desert with no water). Without water nothing rusts. Great for metal; but the desert Southwest will reduce plastic and cloth interior parts to dust because of it's latitude.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As I understand it you have a convertible and you want to do a frame off restoration (or restification since you want to bag it), and are using the sedan frame temporarily so that the car is a roller due to space limitations. Car is fine as a roller that won't be driven.

If you are asking if a sedan frame is a suitable substitution for a convertible frame then I am saying no it isn't. You can swap the frames and have a roller while you repair and reinforce the convertible frame or find a substitute convertible frame from the desert Southwest of the US (you know where every says "it's a dry heat" to explain why they live in desert with no water). Without water nothing rusts. Great for metal; but the desert Southwest will reduce plastic and cloth interior parts to dust because of it's latitude.

Big Dave

Exactly ! You are correct ! ... Ive been told I wont have any issues as long as I reinforce and add extra body mounts ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As I understand it you have a convertible and you want to do a frame off restoration (or restification since you want to bag it), and are using the sedan frame temporarily so that the car is a roller due to space limitations. Car is fine as a roller that won't be driven.

If you are asking if a sedan frame is a suitable substitution for a convertible frame then I am saying no it isn't. You can swap the frames and have a roller while you repair and reinforce the convertible frame or find a substitute convertible frame from the desert Southwest of the US (you know where every says "it's a dry heat" to explain why they live in desert with no water). Without water nothing rusts. Great for metal; but the desert Southwest will reduce plastic and cloth interior parts to dust because of it's latitude.

Big Dave

Plans changed ! I will now be disassembling the 64 vert to pull the frame !!
 

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On a side note, some custom builders are building frames for X-body replacements. Some of them are fully boxed and are way stronger than the original frames under these cars. Also they are perimeter frames so they reduce the amount of twist these cars see under High Torque acceleration. Now these frames are not cheap I think I priced one up at Art Morris and as a full roller with adjustable coil overs I was around $20,000. Now that sounds pretty expensive, but I priced up a full stock frame restoration to roller blasted and powder coated, with new A-arms, spindles, power rack, mossier 9" rear, new springs and shocks plus some other odds and ends and I was over $10,000, and that doesn't include repairs to soft areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On a side note, some custom builders are building frames for X-body replacements. Some of them are fully boxed and are way stronger than the original frames under these cars. Also they are perimeter frames so they reduce the amount of twist these cars see under High Torque acceleration. Now these frames are not cheap I think I priced one up at Art Morris and as a full roller with adjustable coil overs I was around $20,000. Now that sounds pretty expensive, but I priced up a full stock frame restoration to roller blasted and powder coated, with new A-arms, spindles, power rack, mossier 9" rear, new springs and shocks plus some other odds and ends and I was over $10,000, and that doesn't include repairs to soft areas.

Ive seen a few of the Art morrison frames , a dude i know has one on his chevelle , im not interested in going that route. He has a pro charged LS thats goin in it. I priced out a full frame resto and it was close to 13k complete with what i want, thats obtainable with me doing all the work.... I'm not worried too much on pulling the current frame now as im gonna take Big Daves advice and a few others from a few more phone calls i made ,i already got the roller frame gone which is pretty sweet they just have to come pick it up which will free up more garage space . I'll have this thing torn down and off the body in a couple weeks ... Then the fun begins
 
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