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Hello
I have a 65 SS wit the 396 all original, I installed the original rebuilt starter, she fires up right away but after driving her a few miles and I shut her off, she will not start, no nothing almost as the battery is completely dead, I'll wait and hour or so and she'll fire right up, suggestions and help highly appreciated
 

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I stay brief and not list all the possibilities.

The first things I would check (because the 'checks' are free) are the battery cables (both + and -).

Next time it acts up, make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Heat adds resistance and so does loose and/or dirty connections.

If that does not solve the problem, 'jump' (with jumper cables, one 'side' only) the + cable (from battery post to starter) and attempt to start the engine. If it starts, + battery cable needs replacement. Repeat with the - cable. If it starts, the - cable needs replacement (in may be both).

IF you replace the cables, use no larger than 2 gauge (numerically). The 2 gauge is lower resistance than the OEM 6 (as I remember).

Pete
 

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If that does not solve the problem, 'jump' (with jumper cables, one 'side' only) the + cable (from battery post to starter) and attempt to start the engine. If it starts, + battery cable needs replacement. Repeat with the - cable. If it starts, the - cable needs replacement (in may be both).
Great idea - I was going to suggest something similar in ensuring that the cables are not corroded under the sheathing. Either by small cut or Ohm'ing it out with multimeter.

Maximus, have you owned this car for a long time? Is this starting issue all new?
I'm wondering if you have headers because at times they can be close to a stock starter and cause the starter to get hot which limits it's cranking capability. They make heat shields exactly for this reason.
 

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What does your fuel line to your carb setup look like? I had an issue with vapor locking when the fuel boiled in the line next to the engine with rubber lines getting hot.



I had to change my lines to metal
 

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Just want to add support to checking the cable to the starter. I had this same issue and it has been fully remedied by putting everything to spec, Cables, routing, fasteners, and torques. I used the assembly manual for routings and torques and put in new cables from American Autowire. Starts and runs perfect now.
If the problem had persisted I would have check out the Starter heat shields from DEI as a remedy.
Remember, its not a problem, its a project
 

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Because heat increases resistance in electrical circuits and motors, IF you replace cables (if one is bad, I'd do both) recommend 2 gauge (or lower numerically) because that will reduce resistance (over the OEM 6 gauge).

I used this vendor:


They will make the cables to your specifications (connectors, length, gauge, color). You can get them made to look exactly like OEM, just a better gauge. Their products are better quality (and price competitive with) than anything I saw from 'parts' vendors.

Not enough initial timing advance may also produce your 'slow/no crank' until cool off symptoms.

Too much heat near the starter motor windings increase their resistance. IF your BB had heat shielding protecting the starter in its OEM configuration, make sure you have it. IF not, you should not needed 'after market' shielding.

Finally after checking everything, it's NOT unheard of for 'new' batteries and 'new' starters to be defective.

Simply some hints.

Pete
 

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When the starter on my 67 (327) went out, I bought a replacement from Auto Zone. Same problem, when hot it would not turn over. Ended up buying a Summit brand mini starter, no problems since.
 
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